It’s vegetarian month at Legume. What does that mean, really? It means we have a vegetarian tasting menu every day, canola oil replaces beef tallow in the fryer, and we have an extra vegetarian entree on the menu every day.
When vegetarian month is over, I think we’re going to try some new things in the vegetarian department. The American style entree which defines the kind of cooking we do at Legume–meat at the center of the plate, some kind of starch, some kind of veg, and a sauce–really doesn’t work very well for vegetarian food. Vegetarian cooking needs to be approached from a completely different angle. A better way to approach vegetarian cooking, I think, would be to offer a variety of smaller dishes. This is the direction I’d like to move in for our vegetarian guests, perhaps a whole section of the menu dedicated to smaller, focused vegetarian dishes, in order to relieve the pressure of having to accomplish the near impossible task of providing a satisfying vegetarian dinner on one plate.
We’ve been slowly working on building up a repertoire of smaller vegetarian dishes for the menu that will hopefully make eating a vegetarian meal at Legume a little more interesting. One such dish begins by pan-roasting delicious, sweet baby ya-ya carrots from Who Cooks For You Farm. They are then glazed with berbere-spiced honey and apple cider vinegar, and served with Seven Stars yogurt (which has been drained to thicken slightly and mixed with a little creme fraiche), roasted pistachios, and chopped mint.
Another dish is the wild mushroom sandwich, which really isn’t a sandwich at all, but a heap of chanterelle mushrooms sauteed in butter with shallot and garlic on top of a small piece of sourdough which has been slathered with a puree of the season’s first new garlic (the best of the year for roasting) and topped with salsa verde and pickled cippolini onions.
The kitchen is looking forward to doing more of this kind of thing. The new, vegetarian-friendly small plates section of the menu will be rolling out after Labor Day, if not sooner. In the meantime, this month’s vegetarian menu will give you an idea of what is to come.