Preservation Season

September and October is normally a time of year when we’re buried in preservation projects, trying to put away as much produce as possible in jars and buckets for our cold-weather cooking. But with construction for Pie For Breakfast happening in earnest, new changes to the Legume menu format, and a redesign of the Legume kitchen this month, preservation season is a little bit more on the back burner this year.

Yet even with all that is going on, we’ve had a pretty great preservation season, thanks to our amazing kitchen team. Chris and Aeros’s tomatoes were early this year, which meant we were able to do most of our tomato canning during the week of Labor Day, a week that is typically slow for us. It’s also been a huge relief that our butcher, Mary, has stepped up and grabbed the reins of the pickling program. (It’s like magic: the vegetables get delivered, and then the next day they appear in a bucket of brine.)  She’s even managed to break a record in the number of sour dill pickles put away (30 5-gallon buckets) and continues making a steady stream of radish, turnip, and cauliflower pickles each week now that cucumber season is over.  

It’s also been a very good year for new things. For the past five or so years, we’ve been really focused on developing the fermentation program, because it’s the easiest way to preserve a large volume of produce. The fermentation stuff is great, and has led to some really wonderful sour soups in the winter and spring, and pickles galore all year long–things that will never leave our menu. But this fall I wanted to get back to our roots and delve into developing some new preservation recipes using canning techniques, because we hadn’t really added many non-fermented things to our repertoire in years. We came up with three new things this September which I’m really excited about and destined to become winter cold weather staples for years to come: homemade catsup, cantaloupe preserves, and eggplant pickles.

The desire to make catsup began with a desire to make shrimp cocktail. Since this is Legume, opening a can of Heinz Ketchup to use as a base for our  “homemade” cocktail sauce is not an option, so we had to make our own catsup. Truthfully, a damn good cocktail sauce can be made with Heinz Ketchup, but not one with as much character, humanness, or as delicate and complex a flavor as a catsup made with 120#’s of summer produce at its peak (mostly tomatoes) cooked with some cider vinegar, demerara sugar, and lots of spices, and then reduced down to twenty quarts of wonderfulness.

Shrimp cocktail is the kind of thing I love making at Legume, because I love making things that are considered hackneyed and overdone with an approach that is actually interesting and wonderful, not by deconstructing it with a chefy twist that makes the classic unrecognizable, but by actually using the classical form as a disguise for a radical approach to cooking based on invisible, behind the scenes processes. At Legume, the obligatory “twist,”  which fancy restaurants are supposed to put on classic dishes in order to make them contemporary-seeming is that there is no twist.  

The cantaloupe preserves began with Chris and Aeros having amazing cantaloupe at the market one Sunday, me bringing it home and eating some, and immediately calling Chris back begging for as much as he could bring me. This ended up being around 200#s which he brought the next day. I’d remembered a spiced cantaloupe we’d made a few years back from an old Amish recipe.  The recipe resulted in a preserved cantaloupe product that was really sweet, almost candy-like and cooked to the point where the cantaloupe became translucent, which limited its application. This time around we started with the same idea, but used a less sweet, less acidic brine, and cooked it for less time, which resulted in something we now call “crackaloupe.”  Right now it’s on the bluefish dish, which is glazed with the brine and topped with a relish of crackaloupe, jalapeno, and chervil.

Last but not least, the pickled eggplant turned out great. Chris and Aeros had these really great long, skinny eggplant with minimal seeds making it perfect for making firm pickles.  We salted and pressed them overnight, cooked them in some vinegar, and then packed them in olive oil with herbs, garlic, and pepper flake. It’s pretty great. I wish we’d done a lot more, but time’s been so scarce for the reasons mentioned above.

I’m really pleased that all three of these new things turned out well. The thing about preservation season is that there isn’t always the time to develop things, so a lot of what we preserve are actually experiments done on a huge scale. We got lucky this season. It’s a risk to attempt 200# of cantaloupe pickles without a tried and true method, but we take these risks because we know we’re not going to have the opportunity to get cantaloupe like that for another year. It’s a risk worth taking, however, because when these things come out good, it gives new energy to the menu for months to come. (Plus, now we have a written method we can use for years to come.) The bigger risk, at least in terms of keeping our kitchen a fertile creative environment, would be to play it safe.

Iberian Peppers for Tartare

Doug peeling and seeding Iberian cayenne peppers.Mixed with salt and garlic. We will purée in a few weeks after it sours. This is what we’ll use in beef tartare.  The Iberians are nice because they give nice color and some heat without being too hot.

Nasturtium Capers

 Nasturtium capers is something we’ve read a lot about over the years, but never had the chance to work with until Megan from Be Wilder farms offered up the seeds this week. We’re fermenting some, salting some, vinegaring some, etc. until we find a method we like.  So far, every method tastes good. 

Pickled Cantaloupe

The cantaloupe preserves began with Chris and Aeros having amazing cantaloupe at the market one Sunday, me bringing it home and eating some, and immediately calling Chris back begging for as much as he could bring me. This ended up being around 200#s which he brought the next day. I’d remembered a spiced cantaloupe we’d made a few years back from an old Amish recipe.  It was really great, but the recipe was really sweet and acidic and cooked to the point where the cantaloupe became translucent, almost like candy, which limited its application. What we did instead was to take the same idea, but use a less sweet, less acidic brine, and cook it for less time, which resulted in something we now call “crackaloupe.”  Right now it’s on the bluefish dish, which is glazed with the brine and topped with a relish of crackaloupe, jalapeno, and chervil.

Cantaloupe season flies by in Western PA. So we pickle it. 

The thing about preservation season is that there isn’t always the time to develop things, so a lot of what we preserve are actually experiments done on a huge scale. We got lucky this season. It’s a huge risk to order something like 200#s of cantaloupe to make pickles with, but we take these risks because we know we’re not going to have the opportunity to get cantaloupe like that for another year. When the results are not menu-worthy, that’s a whole lot of labor and food costs down the drain, (and a whole lot of mediocre staff meals). But to me, these risks are worth taking, because when these things come out good, it gives new energy to the menu for months to come.  The bigger risk, to my mind, is to play it safe.

Bellow is one of the recipes. We also did a few batches with pickling spices.  This one came out the best though.

Lemon Verbena Cantaloupe
2,200g sugar
5qts water
5 cup champagne vinegar
3 tbs salt
36g fresh lemon verbena sprigs
1 tbs cardamomn
20# peeled, seeded, and sliced cantaloupe

  1. Bring all ingredients except cantaloupe to a boil. Let simmer 5 minutes.  Set aside and let steep the verbena for 30 minutes.
  2. Meanwhile, measure 20# cut cantaloupe into a very clean 22quart cambro.
  3. Heat liquid back to almost the boil.  Pour liquid through chinoise into a clean container to remove spices.
  4. Pour liquid over the cantaloupe.  Weigh down with a few plates and let sit overnight. (The liquid may not cover the cantaloupe at first, but it will eventually as the brine draws water out of the cantaloupe pieces.)
  5. The cantaloupe is good at this point in the fridge for several weeks.  For longer storage, continue through steps 6 and 7. (See Very Important note about storing below.)
  6. The next day: pour off the brine from the cantaloupe into a pot and bring to a boil.
  7. Fill washed and sanitized wide mouth quart jars with 1# 8oz cantaloupe. Top off with brine to ½”, making sure to stir to eliminate pockets of air. Process for 15 minutes.

Very Important: These pickles must stay refrigerated, as they are not acidic enough to be shelf stable.  

Tomatoes


September is always a little nuts around here as we try to capture as much produce as we can.

Conveniently, this year Chris and Aeros’s tomatoes were ready the first week of September, which is good timing because it is typically a slower period for us. It keeps the kitchen crew busy instead of cutting their hours.

The PM crew washes and cores the tomatoes the night before. The AM crew comes in early to blanch, peel, and seed them.

Once the tomatoes are peeled and seeded, we take the skins and put them through the Squeezo, which will yield about 16-20 quarts of additional pulp.

After we cook all the tomatoes, we puree them and cool them.  300# of Roma tomatoes yields around 100 quarts of sauce and juice. (More about the juice later.)

The next morning we can the tomatoes. We could have done it the day before, but by that point in the day the PM crew is coming in, and it just makes more sense to break up the process into two days.

This is tomato water.  After we’ve seeded the tomatoes, we put the seeds and liquid through a chinoise and let the liquid settle over night.  The next day we carefully ladle the tomato water from the top, after all the solids have gone to the bottom. We end up with this clear liquid which is amazing for poaching fish in. We never seem to have enough of this.

After a while it gets tedious.  The last batch of tomatoes is less fun than the first.

Vegetarian Month

It’s vegetarian month at Legume.  What does that mean, really? It means we have a vegetarian tasting menu every day, canola oil replaces beef tallow in the fryer, and we have an extra vegetarian entree on the menu every day.

When vegetarian month is over, I think we’re going to try some new things in the vegetarian department. The American style entree which defines the kind of cooking we do at Legume–meat at the center of the plate, some kind of starch, some kind of veg, and a sauce–really doesn’t work very well for vegetarian food. Vegetarian cooking needs to be approached from a completely different angle. A better way to approach vegetarian cooking, I think, would be to offer a variety of smaller dishes. This is the direction I’d like to move in for our vegetarian guests, perhaps a whole section of the menu dedicated to smaller, focused vegetarian dishes, in order to relieve the pressure of having to accomplish the near impossible task of providing a satisfying vegetarian dinner on one plate.

We’ve been slowly working on building up a repertoire of smaller vegetarian dishes for the menu that will hopefully make eating a vegetarian meal at Legume a little more interesting. One such dish begins by pan-roasting delicious, sweet baby ya-ya carrots from Who Cooks For You Farm. They are then glazed with berbere-spiced honey and apple cider vinegar, and served with Seven Stars yogurt (which has been drained to thicken slightly and mixed with a little creme fraiche), roasted pistachios, and chopped mint.  

Another dish is the wild mushroom sandwich, which really isn’t a sandwich at all, but a heap of chanterelle mushrooms sauteed in butter with shallot and garlic on top of a small piece of sourdough which has been slathered with a puree of the season’s first new garlic (the best of the year for roasting) and topped with salsa verde and pickled cippolini onions.

The kitchen is looking forward to doing more of this kind of thing. The new, vegetarian-friendly small plates section of the menu will be rolling out after Labor Day, if not sooner. In the meantime, this month’s vegetarian menu will give you an idea of what is to come.

Chicken Under a Schism

If Legume has a signature dish, it’s probably the Chicken Cooked Under a Skillet, which is basically our version of the Italian “chicken under a brick,” which is a spatchcock chicken roasted in a pan with a weight on top of it, forming a crispy skin and a juicy texture. It’s a dish that used to be on the menu every single day, and many folks would come specifically for it.  

We used to have this on the menu every day we were open, but as Legume evolved, and we began to think more deeply about how we source things, we began to question how we were sourcing our chicken. First of all, when I asked the farmer if I could visit the operation, they said no. Secondly, the topic of what the chickens actually ate, and whether or not the feed was GMO, was difficult to have, because the GMO issue wasn’t on their radar. I surmised that what we were getting, though certainly “local” as the crow flies and honestly quite tasty, wasn’t really the kind of “local” we were going for.

(That word–”local.” It’s a word that’s used a lot by businesses these days, but what does it really mean? I certainly don’t claim that my definition is the most correct one, but I do think it’s clear that the word means a lot of different things to a lot of different people, and there is certainly nothing wrong with that. However, in terms of being an adjective meant to describe an inherent quality in food, it’s been rendered almost meaningless.)

At some point, we began working with Pete Burns from Burns Heritage Farm. Pete was open to farm visits, and was already in the process of transitioning to a GMO-free feed when we met him. The Burns’ chicken are on fresh pasture every day, and it shows in the flavor of the birds. It also means it is available in the summer only, when there is fresh pasture to be had. Once the cold weather comes, and there is no more fresh pasture, they close shop for the year.

This is the explanation for why our signature dish only appears on the summer menu these days. We plan to have it on the menu most days from now until the end of October, but there will be some weeks, like this past one, when Pete doesn’t have enough chickens of the appropriate size, and we don’t have enough for the week. We’re also cooking a limited number each day. Cooking whole chicken to order really gums up the wheels of the kitchen and can slow things down, so we’re preparing only what we think we’ll sell for the evening.  

Most people these days don’t have time to stand in a long line for the hyped-up food thing that may or not be there in the end. I certainly don’t, and am really sorry if this chicken thing comes across like that. I understand: sometimes you just want what you want, and you want it to be there. If that’s the case, let us know when you make your reservation and we’ll do our best to set an order aside for you if it’s on the menu that day. The chickens are slaughtered on Wednesday and come to us Thursday. Since we like to let the birds marinate overnight, this means the most reliable days to find it on the menu are Friday, Saturday and Monday, though most weeks we will have it every single day.  We want to make this work for the people who love this dish. Thanks for working with us.

I don’t want to pretend that everything we do at Legume is organic and local and perfect, because it’s not. There will be plenty of things I’m not especially excited to cook this winter: farmed Arctic char from Iceland, potatoes from Idaho for fries (once the local storage ones are depleted), and lots of other things. I can’t really explain why it is it feels so hard to compromise on the chicken and switch to a lesser-quality bird for the winter until Pete’s are available the next May.

Perhaps it’s because of the connection I feel with the Burns’ farm: the conversations I get to have with Pete, witnessing his creative process, visiting the farm and seeing how beautifully it operates in a holistic and life-centered way, and, of course, the pleasure of putting hands on food of great quality. It’s almost as if the relationship heightens the sense of sacrilege when it comes to compromise in a way that is not noticed with things we have no chance of a connection to, things like pineapples, chocolate and white sugar.  This feeling of mine is a burden too, because I know there are many folks who just want the damn chicken, no matter how it’s sourced. We’ve had four-tops walk out of the restaurant upon discovering chicken wasn’t on the menu that day, and that’s painful to watch.

That’s the tension that is always happening at Legume, between making beautiful art and maintaining a broad-enough appeal so that the business stays afloat. As cheesy as this sounds, I got into cooking in order to re-live moments of my childhood when I felt a strong connection to the earth: gathering mussels in front of my grandmother’s house, foraging for fiddleheads with my dad, picking blackberries with my friend Joe in a secret patch in the fields behind our houses, gardening, fishing. The art of Legume is in trying to keep these Peter Pan moments lasting for as long as we can. That’s the most important thing.

Thanks for your support and being a part of Legume.

End Of the Scapes

Jess and I were making sauerkraut today. Atfter we’d shredded all the cabbage, we set some of it aside and rummaged through the  walk in to see what kind of fun experimental kraut we could make. 

Low and behold, we found some straights.  “Straights”are the straight part of the garlic scape that we cut off, since they can sometimes be woody and not great for cooking up. We didn’t really know what to do with them, but we didn’t want to just through them away either. Thankfully, they lasted forever in the walk-in, and we shredded them up in the robot coupe and added it to some of the cabbage. 

Will it be good? Who knows? We’ll let you know in a few weeks. 

It’s Taken Three Years to Get Haricot Vertes

Bryan Greenawalt is an important link between Pittsburgh and a community of Amish farmers in Somerset County. Each week in the summer, and just about every other week in the winter, Bryan visits a network of farms and picks up things to bring to the Saturday East Liberty farmer’s market, the one right next to Home Depot.  It’s the city’s longest running and only indoor farmer’s market.

I’ve gone out to Somerset many times with Bryan over the years, and every time something fruitful comes from it. I think it was seven years or so ago when I first met Sam and Nettie, one of Bryan’s biggest suppliers. I asked them if they’d ever heard of Shaker dried corn before, and they hadn’t. I told them it was dehydrated sweet corn and left thinking that they weren’t interested in doing it.

Three months later, Bryan showed up to the market with a five gallon bucket of Shaker corn.  It was a pleasant surprise. Sam and Nettie had had a neighbor fashion a homemade stove top corn-dehydrator, and had been dehydrating corn for the entire months of July and August. It takes about 24 hours for the corn to properly dehydrate.

We’d tried dehydrating corn before in our electric dehydrator, but the Shaker corn from Sam and Nettie was a completely different thing: golden yellowish brown with a nutty aroma, and the texture of fresh corn when rehydrated overnight. I don’t know why theirs is so good, but it probably has something to do with the steady radiant heat of their wood stoves.

One of the great things about working with this particular Amish community, is that the scale most of their farms operate on is a good fit for our needs.  For example, when we asked them to grow Tarbais beans for us, they were able to do it. We only use around 150# or so a season, which isn’t enough for a typical farmer to bother with, but it worked on Sam and Nettie’s scale. One of their neighbors grows chervil, summer savory, and epazote for us. It’s only a few pounds or so of herbs a week, but Bryan tells me they’re happy to do it.

Bryan asks me each spring what we’re looking for at Legume. Three years ago, I told him we wanted haricot verts, the tiny little French green beans which I absolutely adore.  I picked out a variety from a seed catalog and gave Bryan the information. Four months later, Bryan showed up with a nice box of beautiful green beans. I took one bite and it was leather.  I’d failed to mention that the beans needed to be picked really small.

Last year around this time, Bryan came with haricot verts again, and this time they were perfect. The next week, however, they were too big again, and not useable for the restaurant. But since they’d gone through the trouble of growing them, I bought a couple bushel anyways which we ate at staff meal over the next couple of weeks. (If you want people to grow things for you, you need to buy their food, even if its not perfect.)

When Bryan asked me if I wanted anything this year, I didn’t mention haricot verts. I’d given up.  I didn’t want to ask these Amish guys to grow something we might not purchase, but low and behold, Bryan showed up with a bushel of perfect haricot verts this past Saturday.  I’ll be really excited if they’re perfect next week too.

I really appreciate this relationship we have with this community, and am thankful for Bryan for making it happen. Most of the exotic local things we use throughout the year come from him: black walnuts, ground cherries, asparagus, red currants, quince, fresh shelling beans no one else seems to grow around here, sunchokes, over-wintered parsnips and salsify, grapes, and a few other things I’m probably forgetting right now. This spring Sam and Nettie planted some seabuckthorn plants, per my request, after I learned about it in Russia a few years ago. It’ll take a number of years before they produce fruit, but it’ll be worth the wait.